A classic ESB strain from one of England's largest independent breweries. This yeast is best suited for English style ales including milds, bitters, porters, and English style stouts. This yeast will leave a beer very clear, and will leave some residual sweetness.
Chris White, president of White Labs, discusses the company's strains.
A listing of how this style ranks amongst different brew styles, on a scale from 0 to 4.
|American Style Cream Ale||2||American Style Wheat Ale||2|
|Fruit Beer||2||Herbs & Spice Beer||2|
|Specialty Beers||2||Specialty Honey Ales||2|
|Smoke Flavored Beer||2||Golden Ale Canadian Style Ale||2|
|German Style Kolsch||2||Classic English Style Pale Ale||4|
|English Style India Pale Ale||4||American Style Pale Ale||2|
|American Style India Pale Ale||2||American Style Amber||2|
|English Style Bitter||2||English Style ESB||4|
|Scottish Style Ale||2||Irish Style Red Ale||2|
|English Style Brown Ale||4||American Style Brown Ale||2|
|German Style Brown and Dusseldorf Altbier||2||Robust Porter||4|
|Brown Porter||4||Classic Irish Style Dry Stout||2|
|Foreign Style Stout||4||Sweet Stout||4|
|Oatmeal Stout||2||English Old Ale English & American Strong Ale||4|
|Barley Wine Strong Ale||4||Strong Scotch Ale||2|
Feedback and experiences from previous customers. Want to leave a review of your own?
Brewed my first ordinary bitter using WLP002 and Jamil Zainasheff's recipe. Not being intimately familiar with this style, I was expecting something similar to a Scottish 60/- (which I brew using WLP001), but perhaps with a bit more fruity esters. This beer, however, has turned out to be extremely "malt forward" to the point of being unbalanced (at least to my taste). I'm wondering if anyone else has experience or recommendations for using this yeast, or would recommend a commercial example to compare to? I'd like to repitch this yeast in an ESB and/or and English IPA, but not if this batch is sub-par.
Brewed an english maple nut brown on washed 002 left over from a Pumking Clone, and then a holiday beer on that washed yeast. Both beers should have finished around 1.02-1.024 and instead I got nearly 80% apparent attenuation with the nut brown finishing at 1.012 and the xmas ale at 1.006!!! Is this because of having too much yeasties in there to begin with? I'm not going to complain about going from a 9.6% ABV to 11.4 or 9.4% to 10.4% , but now both beers are very dry. Much more so than planned... After 3 months in secondary they both still taste like jet fuel, and I will be bottle conditioning likely until next holiday season and beyond.
First time using this strain. Recently made a 4 gallon batch of a Pale Ale using this WLP002, and made a stater from grain, starter OG = 1.050. starter went for 24 hours and was pitched into 4 Gallon batch at OG = 1.046 @ 68*F. Batch had a nice start and Full Krausen appears to have hit within 24 hours. This morning at 36 hour mark after pitching starter, the Krausen head is disappearing and the "flurry" of yeast swarming around wort, and rapid airlock activity has subsided substantially. Seems to be "Floccing" out and hitting bottom of fermentor already.
Question: Does this sound like a typical character of this strain, OR should I be trying to rouse the yeast again in fermentor?
Note: my description above seems to be the opposite of experience with WLP001 where the Krausen head last 3-4 days before activity really dropped off.
Best strain i've used so far aside form California ale yeast.
I gave this a shot in a mild and a bitter. The first pitch was a 1.036 dark mild. The yeast gave me about 69% ADF with a 153F mash. It has a nice flavor that took about two weeks to really come together after bottle conditioning. I liked the flavor combined with darker malts.
The second beer was an ordinary bitter with a light amber. Not as good of a flavor. It didn't really work well with the lighter flavor, and I had issues with the yeast flocing out at 1.014. However, after bottle conditioning, it ended up fermenting down to 1.012 which resulted in overcarbed bottles.
It's a yeast with decent flavor, but I am somewhat irritated at its tendency to floc out like a brick. If I kegged, this wouldnt be as much of an issue since I could vent. Or pasteurized or somewhat.
So basically do a forced ferment test to see the limit of attenuation with your wort, keep temps stable or rising slightly, and pitch enough yeast.
Can anybody tell me if there is a piece of equipment on the market that would do Bakers Cream Yeast Analysis? I need to know parameters for guidance for acceptable and non-acceptable levels. Thank you in advance.
I brewed my ESB with WL002, no starter. Pitched at 68F. Active fermentation started in under 24 hrs, and brought it up to 70F. Ambient room temp was kept at 66F. It went from OG: 1.053 to FG: 1.010 in 8 days. That's 81% apparent attenuation! Much higher than I expected. I'll be cold crashing and kegging it tomorrow. Everything is tasting great so far. I'll certainly be harvesting this yeast for future batches. Time to win some medals.
I made this smoked cherry porter and I used this in one 5 gallon carboy and the WLP013 London ale in the other carboy. They both turned out great, but there were distinct differences. The 002 left a fruiter, more cherry tasting porter. I put a 3lb can of cherry puree in each carboy. However, the 013 left almost no cherry flavors, but the smokey flavors in the 013 were very evident. There was very little if any smoke character in the 002. Very interesting experiment. (Note: This review also appears under WLP013).
Superb yeast! Let your beer remain in the primary fermenter for 2 weeks and you will have crystal clear beer. Leaves an English hint of flavor/sweetness. English ales demand this yeast!
My absolute favorite yeast -- always gets going in about 4-6 hours (with a starter) and ferments completely in 3 days. Sometimes, the ferment gets going so active, it looks like it is (almost) boiling! I usually let it rest for another day or two, keg it, drink it! If you've ever had the real thing from a hand pump in a British Pub, this is the yeast you want to use to reproduce it.
My tip: After reading the reviews I used a full 2 oz. of NB yeast nutrient to make a 1 pint starter 6 hrs. before pitching at 75F. After pitching I put a cork on the carboy and vigorously rolled it back and forth for a minute (I learned this technique from watching Papazian in 'American Brew'). Fermentation began almost immediately. It was a late boil, and after 24 hrs I simply left a window open to cool it over night. To my surprise the flocculation actually caused the temperature to rise back to 76F after initially cooling to 70F. Question: Does anyone have any advice or opinion on the use of this yeast for a smoked ale? I use alder chips and the flavor is kind of mellow, so I am a little worried it won't be apparent in the finished product.
I brew ESB and bitters often and I love this yeast. Leaves the beer very clear and adds a nice fruitiness and leaves some sweetness. When using a 16oz starter, the yeast shows active fermentation in about 3hrs and is usually complete in about 2 days.
Brewed a High Gravity Porter 8.8% ABV. Looking for residual sweetness to balance the high IBU's. At first I was skeptical that the strain could handle almost 9% ABV. Not only did it handle it, but it fermented down to the FG in 7 days. Racked to secondary, flocculation was awesome. My clearest beer to date. It took 6 weeks to carbonate in the bottle. Another 8 weeks to blend and mellow. This beer is a winner. The quality, characteristics and hardiness of this strain created a perfect winter brew. OG 1.090, FG 1.024, AA 72%. Unrefined sucrose in 15% of the Grain Bill.
This yeast was great for a malty brown ale. The lower attenuation really allowed the beer to keep a sweet flavor profile. The fermentation was right around 70F and the esters complimented the malt bill extremely well.
The yeast gives a great flavor but always makes me a little tense at first. For me it has taken a day for it to really get going and on all 3 batches I regularly have to agitate it. I do not have a wort aerator so I would think that would help quite a bit. However, the yeast is worth the wait and I have obviously come back to it. Contamination has never been an issue.
Excellent flocculation; fermented first week between 63 and 69 degrees F, and second week between 72 and 75 degrees. Great malty flavor with light nut and earthy flavors. Great success with Kent Goldings for bitter and Fuggles for flavor/aroma.
This yeast can produce diacetyl (butter scotch flavor) if you do not leave the yeast in contact with the beer long enough. Wait 3 days after your air lock stops bubbling before separating the yeast from the beer.
I am very pleased with this yeast strain when brewing a mild. I've gone beyond the recommended temp, and kicked it up to 72 degrees and had wonderful results. Very pleasant esters (plum notes...), and a nice "bready" taste. The average score I've been getting in competitions since brewing with this yeast strain at these temps is 39, with a high of 43.
My favorite yeast! Works great for the styles listed. Very clean. Is slow to start, but if you agitate it a bit within the first 10-12 hours, it kicks into high gear. Maltiness really comes through. Beer is very clear when finished. If producing authentic English ales, and the water has been treated with added minerals, the mineral tastes are more enhanced.
Basically hopped with Amarillo and Goldings. Yeast is pretty clean, but really masks hop aroma and flavor. So flocculent that friends will think your beer is filtered.
"This left more residual sweetness than I thought it would. Here are the specifics...
O. G. – 1.056 = 7.4% F.G. – 1.018 = 2.3%
It sure made a nice tasting beer... I think I'll try a brown ale with it next time."
I have used White Labs Liquid yeast on two separate occasions. WLP002 for a brown ale and WLP004 for an Irish stout. Using one vial in 5 gallons of wort, the wort showed no signs of fermentation after 2-3 days. Then I added one packet of dry yeast, and within a few hours, fermentation began. I am wondering why the beer doesn't ferment with only the liquid yeast? I purchase it from homebrew store, and it is kept refrigerated until it is used. Also, to my knowledge, neither had expired.
Sometimes they just need some agitation, which is sort of what happened when the dry yeast was added. It gave nucleation sites for gas to escape and signs of fermentation to be evident. That happens a lot when fermentations don't start; you add another yeast, and soon you see fermentation. It isn't actually what was just added but the kick-start into the yeast. Both WLP002 and 004 are flocculent, and they can settle to the bottom after pitching. With flocculent strains it is even more important to stir the fermenter in the beginning. Either leaving a fish-pump type device with an air filter on for 1 hour post-pitching or stirring the fermenter a few times a day will keep the yeast in suspension and drive out CO2.
Is WLP002 English Ale supposed to be grainy? I got the yeast out of the cooler and shook it up as I normally do, and it appeared to be coagulated. I've never used this strain of yeast before -- is this normal?
Yes, the yeast often looks coagulated - that is the high flocculation characteristic of this yeast. You will see a similar look with our other English Style strains as well. You have to give it lots of aeration at the beginning. Sha